Finally, after four hours, we leave Andheri behind and continue the journey to Kathmandu. A stark contrast to the high plateau lying several thousand feet higher and behind us. Unfortunately, it is now becoming dark and we have over two hours of twisting, rutted road ahead of us into Kathmandu.

Our drivers, intent on setting new land speed records, race around blind corners in the dark flashing brights in hopes of discouraging head-0n crashes. Pamala holds her hands over her eyes for the better part of the journey.

When we enter Kathmandu proper, it is is pitch dark. There are millions of cars, busses, bikes, pedestrians, etc. all swerving in and out at high speed. The headlights and tail lights take on the appearance of a kalidescope. There is no telling where one car stops and another begins. The margins between the passing cars and trucks is measured in inches. Somehow, we manage to arrive at our hotel. And the serious drinking immediately began.